Dreaming of Dior

When I think romance, fairytale, and daydream, I think Dior. Christian Dior imagined a world of decadence and beauty in a time of war and strife. He designed flowering silhouettes that broke the conservative, boxy trend of World War II, giving women a new hope for the future of fashion. Even after his death, Dior’s legacy is protected by those who fell in love with his creations. The Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams exhibit at the Victoria and Albert Museum transports viewers to a fantasy world of old school glamour and allure. Through the use of stunning exhibition design, gorgeous lighting and projection, and dreamy audio, the exhibit celebrates not only Dior’s golden age of fashion, but the legacy he created that continues to inspire.

The beginning of the Dior exhibit features a single design: The New Look. Dior’s Bar Suit was an instant success in his first line, loved for bringing back the cinched waist we lost during the war. The white, elegant, hourglass silhouette coat is an iconic look known by name by women worldwide, but it’s beginning was controversial. When it first launched in 1947, many were outraged by how much fabric the look wasted in a time of rationing. However, this collection is credited with reviving the fashion world in France. It marked Dior as a man to be watched, as he knew what women wanted in fashion. It is fitting to start the exhibit with this innovative design that launched the brand into a successful fashion house.

Dior died of a heart attack in 1957, only 10 years after the beginning of his fashion golden age. His Artistic Director position was passed down to Yves Saint-Laurent, his 21 year old assistant at the time. After him, 5 more Artistic Directors followed, all who are highlighted in the Dior exhibit. From John Galliano’s pop of color to Marc Bohan’s classic looks, each designer had a unique flair while still maintaining the Dior brand. I very much enjoyed Gianfranco Ferre’s “Scala Dress” for it’s sophisticated color palette dripping in lace, flowers, and Swarovski crystals. Ferre did a wonderful job of modernizing the Dior look into something 21st century men and women will love. I thought it was very effective to put all of these designers in the same room, somewhat separated but close enough to see the similarities between them.

This exhibit not only paid tribute to Dior’s Artistic Directors, but also to the Dior seamstresses. The atelier room was one of my favorites in the entire exhibit. I found it fascinating that the breathtaking dresses in the rest of the exhibit were once just as stunning in their barebone, white silhouettes. I was able to witness the garment transformation through a collage of videos, giving a behind the scenes look at the construction process. This room highlights the variety of textures used in Dior designs due to the monochromatic space, giving me a greater appreciation for all of the steps taken to produce a breathtaking look.

Dior once said, “After women, flowers are the most divine creations.” This pillar of inspiration for Dior is especially prominent in the flower room. This was one of the most breathtaking rooms in the exhibit, with a ceiling covered in white flowers and bathed in purple and green light. At the center of it all, Maria Grazi Chiuri’s “Garden in Bloom” Dress sits behind glass, embodying Dior’s love of flowers. The dress itself is covered entirely in flower petals of pink, yellow, and white. This dress effortlessly fits into Dior’s vision with it’s elegant frame and cascading floral fabric. Surrounding this look with the whimsical, dream-like space filled with other floral inspired gowns helped to bring this design to another level.

The exhibit ended with a bang: The “Eventail de vos Hasards” Dress by Maria Grazia Chiuri. This tulle ensemble by the current Artistic Director of Dior is a fantastic closing to the exhibit. It was inspired by a fan that was used in some of Christian Dior’s original designs, tying together the past of the brand with the present. This dress is timeless; a model could wear this look alongside the Bar Suit in a fashion show and no one would know that these ensembles were created 70 years apart. The words “Christian Dior” visible under the tulle creates a beautiful homage to the brand’s roots. The end of this exhibit very much mirrors the beginning with a single, striking look for viewers to take in. I think the placement of these pieces is brilliant in showcasing the legacy of this brand and where it is going in the future.

Overall, I was in awe of this exhibit. I sat in the ballroom for 20 minutes watching the ceiling explode into stars over and over again. I feel very lucky to have witnessed this artful creation honoring one of the most distinguished designers of our time. I am in love with the theatricality of this exhibit, creating a beautiful and different experience in each room that, when pieced together, creates the narrative of 70 years of Dior. I left Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams feeling utterly inspired. I hope to take what I’ve learned about fashion here and use it to create something I can call my own. But for now, I’m dreaming of Dior.